For nearly 30 years Oregon’s Le Cadeau Vineyard has been producing amazing wines, cultivating a loyal audience and earning worldwide attention for their grapes and wine rosters.
Founders Deb and Tom Mortimer
The founders, Deb and Tom Mortimer, will tell you the secret to great wine isn’t a secret at all. It’s actually quite obvious and staring everyone in the face. It’s the grapes. Respecting the grapes and carefully protecting and supporting their process; it’s the difference between mediocre wine and the excellent wine that they strive to produce year after year.
They grew from six acres to sixteen, and planted Pommard, Dijon clones 667, 777, 113, and 115, Mariafeld (a Swiss Pinot Noir clone) starting on the south slope of Parrett Mountain, in the Chehalem Mountains AVA.
From the beginning, Le Cadeau’s location produced noticeable magic. Vibrant aromatics. Intense fruit forward flavors with glimmers of spice and earthiness usually not often found in young Pinot Noir wines.
Le Cadeau Vineyard
Find Le Cadeau Vineyard on the southern tip of Parrett Mountain near Newberg, Oregon, in the Chehalem Mountains AVA.
The 16-acre vineyard benefits from high-elevation (610’ – 725’) developed and planted with one focus – growing distinct and complex Pinot Noir.
The vineyard delivers based on a combination of soils: Jory, Nekia, and Witzel soil (a very shallow, broken basalt). On the East side, a cross between Jory and Willakenzie.
One of the wines tasted today, Merci Pinot Noir – comes from an assortment of new plantings of heirloom clones, including Mt. Eden, Calera, Swan and Jackson.
Le Cadeau Wines
2018 Merci Reserve Pinot Noir
2018 Merci Reserve Pinot Noir
From Winemaker Jim Sanders, it’s a blessing in the bottle, or as they’ve said a ‘Merci’ thank you. After a taste, with a grin on your face you might say the same as you pour your second sip.
Ruby in the glass. Red currant, red plum, blue berry, peach, orange peel on the nose. White pepper, vanilla, boysenberry. Nice, velvety medium body with medium tannin and a very pleasant finish. Perfectly paired with lamb, turkey, roasted chicken.
Blanc de Noir 2017
Winemaker Steve Ryan and his team produced a classic representation of Blanc de Noir, minimizing skin contact, fermenting in both Stainless steel and French oak.
The result is a very drinkable potion. Subtle apricot with pronounced pear on the nose. Green apple, lemon zest, pasty and flirty touch of cherry on the finish. Pair it with garden salad, light appetizers, even a light chicken dish.
Le Cadeau Wine Club
Wine club membership has three level: Platinum, Gold, Silver with tiers that include discounts per shipment, access to limited releases, invites to events and parties, and complimentary tastings at the Dundee location.
Located on Highway 99W in Dundee, just 45 minutes from Portland and 30 minutes away from their vineyard, off-site tasting room is inside The Dundee hotel.
L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade Culinary Cookout Returns! Culinary Talents Return to Fight Childhood Cancer for Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation
Suzanne Goin, Caroline Styne and David Lentz Joined by International Chefs, Winemakers, Brewers and Mixologists to Fund Childhood Cancer Research
After a three year hiatus, L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade, hosted by James Beard Foundation award-winners Chef Suzanne Goin and partner Caroline Styne (The Lucques Group) along with Chef David Lentz, returns on Saturday, September 23, 2023, from 12:30 – 4:30 pm on UCLA’s Royce Quad.
L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade returns on Saturday, September 23, 2023, from 12:30 – 4:30 pm on UCLA’s Royce Quad.
Goin, Styne and Lentz have again enlisted the support and generosity of their culinary-superstar friends around the country who will donate their time and services to raise funds and awareness for Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation (ALSF) and its mission to find better treatments and cures for all kids with cancer.
The Presenting Sponsors for the cookout are Northwestern Mutual and Volvo Cars of North America.
Featuring fabulous food, wine and cocktails prepared by the nation’s best chefs, winemakers and mixologists, L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade is an afternoon of fantastic fare, cocktails for a cause, children’s activities, extravagant silent and exhilarating live auctions, and much more.
Returning Chefs include…
The 2023 event is guaranteed to surpass the aspirations of previous years with returning chefs Michael Cimarusti, Chris Bianco, Adam Perry Lang, Donald Link, Nancy Oakes, Nancy Silverton, Suzanne Tracht, Jon Shook, Vinny Dotolo, Rocco Whalen and Marc Vetri coming together to cook for childhood cancer cures.
First time participating Chefs…
First time participants Akasha Richmond, (LA) — AKASHA; Dana Slatkin & Brittany Cassidy (L.A.) — Violet; Drew Deckman (Baja California, Mexico) — Deckman’s; Gavin Fine (Jackson Hole, WY) — Fine Dining Restaurant Group; Tiffany Dela Pena, Tim Cardenas and Irene Widjaya (L.A.) — Caldo Verde and Cara Cara; Jeremy Tummel (Santa Barbara)— La Paloma Café; Mason Hereford (New Orleans) — Turkey and The Wolf; Roxana Julipat (L.A.) — Friends & FamilySarin Sing (L.A.) — Jitlada; Sergei Simonov (Santa Barbara) — Loquita; and Vivian Ku(L.A.) — Pine and Crane.
More chefs will continue to be announced, as well as leading vintners and mixologists from across the country.
Pricing for General Admission tickets is $195 until August 1, when the price increases to $255. L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade also offers a $1,500 premier ticket level that includes early access to the event, VIP seating and an exclusive invite to the private and intimate Welcome Dinner the evening before, on Friday, September 22.
The culinary cookout is family-friendly; children under the age of 12 are free with accompanying adult and do not need to register for the event.
For complete listings of participants and to purchase tickets for this year’s event visit the ALSF website. All proceeds will benefit the Foundation.
L.A. supporters enthusiastically responded with huge turnouts in the first ten years, sampling signature dishes of world-renowned chefs and reaching over $8 million in sponsorship, ticket and auction sales to date.
In addition to the generous backing of the community, prominent personalities from the entertainment industry – long time attendees Jimmy Kimmel, Laura Dern, Joe Mantegna, Timothy Olyphant, Kirsten Vangsness and others – have become champions of the cause.
More than 2,500 people, including more than 100 chefs, mixologists and vintners, attended the last cookout in 2019, which raised over 1.3 million. Those in attendance heard an inspiring speech by Jay & Liz Scott, Alex’s parents, and co-executive directors of Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation. Three-time childhood cancer survivor and UCLA graduate, Alexandra Keir, also spoke, telling guests about her experience with cancer and how supporters can join her and ALSF in the fight against childhood cancer.
“I’m unbelievably happy that we are finally bringing L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade back. Suzanne, David and I have missed being able to support this amazing Foundation and bring all of our food and wine friends together again,” said co-founder Caroline Styne.
“I always say this, but this is literally my favorite day of the year.
“‘We’re so excited to be back and we’re in awe of the commitment and generosity of Suzanne, Caroline and David, all the participating chefs, vintners, mixologists and guests of L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade,” said Liz Scott, Alex’s mom and Co-Executive Director of the Foundation. “It is so special to celebrate an entire decade of L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade! Every year we move closer to achieving Alex’s vision of finding a cure for all kids with cancer!”
For information on how to become a sponsor, contact Sara Moyer at Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation, (610) 649-3034 or S.Moyer@AlexsLemonade.org
NBA Hall of Famer Tony Parker shares his dinner party secrets, favorite french summer escapes and the future of the Rose’ Revolution.
In his incredible basketball career, Tony Parker earned four NBA Championships with the San Antonio Spurs, was selected for six All-Star teams and named MVP of the 2007 Finals.
But these days, his passion for food and wine is keeping him even more inspired.
Starting as a boy growing up in France, the memorable dinner parties he hosted during his NBA days, his summer escapes to French Vineyards during the off-season.
It’s no surprise that now he diving into the French wine world, buying Château La Mascaronne in Provence with legendary business partner Michel Reybier.
A magnificent adventure for the next vintage of his life’s journey.
Château La Mascaronne Rose’ COURTESY OF CHÂTEAU LA MASCARONNE
Today I sat down with Tony Parker (over audio-only speakerphone) for a conversation about dinner parties, french vacation, getting busy in vineyards, and the future of Rose’ wine.
The conversation has been edited for length and clarity. The full conversation can be found on our YouTube channel.
Also, the podcast version is here:
You’ve been diving into the world of winemaking with Michel Reybier and his team. Can you talk a little bit about the adventure, any surprises or lessons?
It’s been amazing. I always wanted to invest in a project like that. The first time I tried wine was when I was 17 years old. I wanted to keep learning about it and get my knowledge better around the wine world. And so when I was 19, I finally made enough money to afford all those great wines.
I was lucky enough to play for a coach who loved wine, had a huge collection, was reading wine magazines every trip. And so that’s how we bonded. As I got better, in my knowledge of wine, I started to invite all the best [people] in San Antonio to come to do a nice dinner at my house with Coach Popovich, and then the next day I would invite them to a Spurs game.
Château La Mascaronne COURTESY OF CHÂTEAU LA MASCARONNE
Then during the summer I started making trips to the vineyard. I started to know them better. Because in the wine world, obviously, you have great families. They’re super passionate. And that’s how I started; working on my allocation and the good bottles, the Reserves.
Tony Parker and Michel Reybier – SEBASTIEN CLAVEL
When I retired I wanted to be more involved. But it’s very hard to invest in the wine business because it’s either in the family for generations and generations. Those big companies buy everything. And so I was very lucky, through mutual friends I met Mr. Reybier and after talking for six or eight months, we decided to become partners. Now I’m a proud Owner / Ambassador / Everything.
You mentioned the wine dinners you had in San Antonio. Just for us massive foodies, can you help us fantasize for a moment?
What kind of food was served? What kind of wines were poured? Can you take us back to those nights?
I had a private chef. My private chef would work with the vineyard. We tell them who’s coming, how many people, which bottles and what year they will send us.
Then they will work with my staff to make sure we make a menu accordingly, to make sure that everything is matched with what we are drinking.
So when the [dinner party] came to my house, we tried [the vintages] 1969, 1982, 2000 and 2009. It was unbelievable. Great bottles, great vintages.
And for me, I’m very lucky too because I’m born in 1982 and it’s one of the best years for wine, especially in Bordeaux. So every time I visit a castle in Bordeaux, the employees are always super happy because it’s a good opportunity for them, as the owner, to open an ‘82 [vintage].
Most of the time, they’ll come and say thank you to me, saying it’s [their] first time trying an ‘82 [vintage]. Because nowadays, they don’t open those 82’s a lot.
You’ve hinted at your sports background, obviously you have become a master. Is there any lesson that you mastered in sports that you’ve brought into the wine world with you?
The passion and the work ethic. Obviously in the wine world I will never try to be and talk like a Sommelier, they studied for that. Even if I have good knowledge and I’ve been working with vineyards. And I’m learning all the time, especially since I’ve been owning vineyards. I did Harvest. I did the assemblage. Which is when you try all the possible [options], and you decide what the wine is going to be.
Tony Parker and Michel Reybier – SEBASTIEN CLAVEL
I’ve been working with great directors. Our director is unbelievable. The director at La Mascaronne, she’s great too. And so for me, it’s been great knowledge, and a great learning process to learn even more about wine.
What inspired you to choose the partner with Chateau La Mascaronne?
When I met him, I knew he was huge in the wine business and obviously it brings a lot of credibility when you work with somebody like Michel Reybier because he’s been at this for so long and he’s the owner of one of the best wines in the world with Château Cos d’Estournel.
That’s how I knew him and that was big time. When he talked about La Mascaronne, he bought it from Tom Bove.
Back in 2006, when I started going on vacation every summer, I started drinking Rose’ with my brothers and my friends. We love rose’ in the summer.
That’s when Miraval took off. Brad Pitt bought it with Angelina [Jolie]. He bought Miraval from Tom Bove.
Tony Parker at Château La Mascaronne COURTESY OF CHÂTEAU LA MASCARONNE
So [I thought] if Tom Bove hit that property perfectly with Miraval, for sure [it can happen] with La Mascaronne, it’s just a matter of time before we can do something amazing.
What’s next for you as far as the wine world goes?
Our premium rosé just came out from La Mascaronne. Only 3,000 bottles.
We’re working on more premium one’s now. I think that’s where things are going with rose’s. All these big companies and all the knowledge that they get from the red wines is coming into the Rosé world, where the Rosé is going to get better and better.
For more information on Tony Parker and La Mascaronne:
Cuyama Buckhorn’s Buckhorn Bar, led by Scott Augat and Sam Seidenberg is Unlike any Roadside Cowboy Bar in the High Desert
Bar Lead Sam Seidenberg is doing something twofold at the Buckhorn Bar – he is encouraging and creating cultural exchanges unlike perhaps anywhere else in the state, and he is taking the idea of outdoors-to-glass to the next level.
A high desert hideaway, Cuyama Buckhorn sits on Highway 166 between Santa Maria and Bakersfield, CA—an hour away from Santa Maria Airport, two hours from Santa Barbara Airport, two and a half hours from Los Angeles International Airport, two hours from Burbank Airport, and just over an hour from Bakersfield Municipal Airport.
The L88 airstrip, a privately-owned, public use airport is 2 blocks from the resort.
Nestled in what is referred to as The Hidden Valley of Enchantment—a fitting nickname for this hidden gem of a region—Cuyama Buckhorn neighbors small farms, ranches, wineries, and natural landmarks including Carrizo Plain National Monument, Los Padres National Forest, and Bitter Creek Wildlife Preserve. The area is a popular destination for motorcyclists and pilots.
Cuyama Buckhorn was originally a roadside motel built for oil executives to have a place to stay in the 1950s, and in the 70+ years since it opened, has since catered to everyone from local ranchers and cowboys to bikers and car buffs out for their Sunday drives.
Seidenberg brings a wealth of experience to the job, having worked in bars in San Francisco and Portland before discovering New Cuyama one day and realizing the town had everything he needed.
Today the bar’s motto “Come as you are” welcomes everyone from mountain bikers and outdoor enthusiasts to city folks looking to enjoy the resort for the weekend.
“This is essentially an American country bar and my goal is for us to meet the needs of everyone who walks through the door,”
says Seidenberg.
“We have a more diverse clientele here than I ever saw when I was working in the Mission District in San Francisco,” says Seidenberg of the scene.
What he has done with the cocktail program is create a way to tell stories through the drinks he’s created and thus encourage those drinking them to better understand where they are at that moment.
God’s Country, made with Rye, 3H Wagyu Beef, Coors Light and Corn
God’s Country, made with Rye, 3H Wagyu Beef, Coors Light and Corn
For example, his drink, God’s Country, made with Rye, 3H Wagyu Beef, Coors Light and Corn is basically an homage to the ranch traditions of the Valley itself.
As with the layered stories behind each drink, Seidenberg, who has a deep personal passion for the area and the Los Padres National Forest in particular, focuses on layering ingredients from the region as well into each drink he develops.
Whether he be out for a mountain bike ride or a trek into the mountains, he’s always on the hunt for what he can bring back into the bar and ultimately the glass. While manzanita may be highly endangered elsewhere in the state, in the Cuyama Valley it grows abundantly and Seidenberg finds many ways to use it from harvesting berries to picking the flowers.
A drink such as the Prickly Pear, Manzanita Flower, Yerba Santa and Mezcal Spritzer is just one example of the fruits of his labor.
General Manager and Sommelier Scott Augat, who has spent his career at some of the best restaurants in Boston, Miami and Dallas, is also passionate about both creating conversation and inciting curiosity with bar patrons.
Augat’s sourcing of draft beers includes some local favorites
Augat’s sourcing of draft beers includes some local favorites, including a beer from There Does Not Exist, a local San Luis Obispo brewery helmed by Max Montgomery, who worked at Firestone-Walker Brewing for many years.
The “Cans & Bottles” section features “usual suspects” and then there are the unusual suspects – outliers like Anchorage Brewing’s Sent By Liars, Oxbow Brewing Company’s Bramble On, and Fonteinen’s Sherry Lambikken Blend, to name a few.
Augat’s wine list of nearly 60 wines offers more than a few surprise-and-delight moments. While Augat recognizes that Cuyama Buckhorn is in Santa Barbara County, one of the country’s top wine producing regions, he also wants to introduce guests to wines from other regions that are making their best versions of particular grape varietals –think small regions of Italy and France, as well as Austria, Lebanon, and Slovenia. He’s focused on seeking out small producers and showcasing single vineyard wines from across the globe.
Between Seidenberg and Augat and their team, locals and hotel guests are in good hands where libations are concerned. Not only is everyone guaranteed a stellar beverage experience here, but they may get an education at the same time. Everyone who works behind the bar shares a passion for talking to people and sharing stories, which seems to create an environment where guests find themselves talking and learning, intentionally or unintentionally, about the area and each other.
Cuyama Buckhorn’s Buckhorn Bar Menu
The bar menu is divided into six sections – Farm to Glass, Barrel Aged Cocktails, Macerations, Draft Beer, Cans and Bottles, and Spirits Flights.
FARM TO GLASS is five enticing elixirs, all created to showcase the house-made liqueurs, bitters and seasonal syrups made from local produce and foraged herbs that feature prominently in each glass. Each cocktail is $18.
Done Deal
Aquavit, Amaro, Golden Beet, Lemon
Long December
Reposado, Carrot, Cardamom, Honey
Chelsea Cooler
Botanicals, Celery, Thyme, Red Peppercorn
God’s Country
Rye, 3H Wagyu Beef, Coors Light, Corn
Honeymooner
Grappa, Pineapple, Campari, y, Chartreuse
BARREL AGED COCKTAILS are served from a wine thief from one of four Rod & Hammer whiskey barrels. Each one holds a traditional cocktail such as a Manhattan, a Boulevardier, a White Negroni and a Nouveau Carré and all are made using the Solera aging process so that the flavor of each drink develops over time. Each cocktail is $20.
MACERATIONS are visual delights and feature Tequila, Grappa, Rum and Whiskey
MACERATIONS are visual delights and feature Tequila, Grappa, Rum and Whiskey – each infused with a combination of flavors such as watermelon, hibiscus and black pepper corn or pineapple, tomatillo and arbol chiles. The watermelon and pineapple have both been smoked with Cypress wood from a felled tree on the property. These can be sipped neat, used in cocktails or served over a large ice cube topped with a splash of Topo Chico. Macerations are $10.
The FLIGHT MENU is two flights of each spirit–Bourbon, Rye, Peated Whiskey, Brandy/Cognac, Gin, Mezcal and Tequila–with the choice of a Staple Flight or a Premium Flight. Flight mats are provided (staple flights on one side, premium on the other) with information about each spirit along with tasting notes.
A high desert hideaway, Cuyama Buckhorn sits on Highway 166 between Santa Maria and Bakersfield, CA—an hour away from Santa Maria Airport, two hours from Santa Barbara Airport, two and a half hours from Los Angeles International Airport, two hours from Burbank Airport, and just over an hour from Bakersfield Municipal Airport. The L88 airstrip, a privately-owned, public use airport is 2 blocks from the resort.
Nestled in what is referred to as The Hidden Valley of Enchantment—a fitting nickname for this hidden gem of a region—Cuyama Buckhorn neighbors small farms, ranches, wineries, and natural landmarks including Carrizo Plain National Monument, Los Padres National Forest, and Bitter Creek Wildlife Preserve. The area is a popular destination for motorcyclists and pilots.
ABOUT CUYAMA BUCKHORN
Cuyama Buckhorn is a timeless roadside resort, restaurant, bar, and coffee shop in the heart of California’s high desert within Santa Barbara County, approximately 2 hours north of Los Angeles.
First opened in 1952, Cuyama Buckhorn was remodeled by 2 Los Angeles-based designers who sought to bring the rich history of the resort back to life. The modern motel features 21 renovated Western-chic guest rooms, all with dedicated patio areas. Vintage accents and fixtures throughout the resort nod to the property’s rancher history and original mid-century architecture.
For dining, the property features a farm-to-table restaurant, bar, and coffee shop, along with spaces for hosting private events, weddings, or meetings.
Summertime is hot weather, light meals and adventures outside. All of which pair incredibly well with white wines.
That’s why Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen decided to write a book featuring 1000s of white wine grapes that wine lovers should try. Some are very common, some are very obscure. But they’re all worth a taste – seriously.
Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen’s new book White Wine Book
Today Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen sat down (over zoom) for a conversation about wine, travel, food and more!
Note: the below interview has been edited for length and clarity. The full interview is available on YouTube, with clips in this article.
We’re talking about your new book “White Wine” today, available now on Amazon and we have a lot of questions. But first, welcome to the conversation and thank you both for being here.
Thank you. Thank you. We’re thrilled to be here.
For anyone who’s new to wine, these two are absolute wine GOATs. They’re the experts. They’ve written some great books in the past, and their new book is absolutely amazing. Over the past week I’ve had the chance to show it to a lot of people in my life and what I’ve loved about it is everybody from the wine geek all the way down to people who are barely wine drinkers, have all found really interesting reasons to love the book.
In the book you mention the word “invitation” several times. You include casual tasting instructions, the food pairing index, the white wine checklist. You do such a good job of making the wine approachable.
How important was it when you were building this book, the idea of making it approachable?
Wine always is very mysterious to people. And it doesn’t have to be. We really believe it. It’s kind of like our mantra. Open up a bottle of wine, sit around a table together, and there’s some conviviality and communal, you know, and, and communality in that bottle. So when you sit down in a circle and you’re having a glass of wine together, all of a sudden, we’re not so different.
So one of the things that we really wanted to speak to is to make wine approachable. One of things I really appreciate what you just said, is that people from all levels, from wine geeks to wine novices, we specifically set out to write this book with enough information that the geek will be really happy and enough information to intrigue the novice to wanna learn more.
We’ve always said this is the kind of book that you would buy for your Dad who happens to like wine, or you would buy it for yourself or buy it for a girlfriend or a buddy that wants to learn more about wine.
But I will tell you that we’ve been honored; our last book, Red Wine (amazon.com), was actually suggested reading list for people who were studying to become Masters of Wine. So we wrote this book with that idea in mind because we’d like this book to be a reference for Master of Wine students.
I think a lot of people may not realize just how much wine you might taste in an average year.
When we are tasting wine, whether it’s for a book like this and we’re trying to decide what gets include, or when we’re writing our articles, it’s very easy for us to open up 30 bottles in a day.
But there’s also traveling, going to wine regions, and walking into a winery and visiting four wineries a day where people can pour you anywhere between 3 or 4, up to 20 glasses.
One of the things that we have to make a distinction is how much wine do we taste and how much wine do we drink.
Because when we taste wine, we may open 30 bottles, but you just have a sip, you swirl it around your mouth, you get your impression, and then you spit it out. So you can actually taste 30 or 40 wines in one sitting. The alcohol that you actually absorb in your mouth is probably equal to one glass of wine.
We really have to maintain our wits about us when we’re writing books and tasting notes. And then out of those 30 wines, we’ll choose one or two to put in the fridge and drink with dinner.
So the difference between drinking the wine and tasting the wine is a big difference. Our neighbors absolutely love us because we have these bottles with [2 inches] out of it and put the cork back in and give it to them. So they’re very, very happy. But I think one of the things that we had to do for this book is taste.
There’s about 2,000 recommended wines. I’m gonna say we we tasted close to 5,000 [wines]. Not everything made the cut.
That’s incredible. So speaking of those 5,000, how do we prevent palette fatigue?
One thing for both of us is we both drink sparkling water.
Also, we eat very simple things just to clear the palette, wipe some of the tannins from it. We’ll eat sliced baguette or plain water crackers. That kind of thing. Also, try to break it up. Don’t drink the same style of wine over and over, because you’ll stop noticing the subtleties between them.
It’s training too. I can’t run a marathon tomorrow because I haven’t trained for a marathon, but I can taste 30 wines or 40 wines tomorrow because I’ve trained my palette to discern the differences. So it’s kind of like an athlete, it has to do with training to prevent fatigue.
So staying on the idea of tasting for a second, how do we talk to a winemaker? Any tips for a less-experienced wine drinker?
One of the first, and an easy question to ask, is how much did you make of this wine? Because that actually gives you an indication of how special the wine is, right? If somebody says, ‘Oh, we make a million bottles of this every year.’ Maybe it’s not so special.
If they say, ‘Oh, we only made 2,000 bottles of this and it comes from one special vineyard, that sometimes opens up the question of how special it is.
Another question is, if it’s a blend, if it doesn’t say on the bottle that it’s Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio, and you just know that it’s a white wine, you can ask what grapes are in this.
But people who visit wineries should ask questions. Take that as an opportunity to learn. Read the book White Wine, get some knowledge, and then you go to a winery, go out to California, go to New York State, go wherever you go, and visit a winery and talk to the winemaker and talk to the people who are responsible for making the wine. They’re very generous with their time. They want you to be informed and they want you to enjoy their wine. So do your homework and then learn some more in person, and then go back and read our book again, because you’ll learn a little bit more.
Your White Wine book is a mammoth undertaking. There’s a lot of information in there. How did you create all of this?
I think actually we were lucky in that we’d already written Red Wine. We worked with our publisher. We actually walked in, knowing that some of our prior books were a little bit text heavy, and said, ‘Hey, we want to do some graphics. For the flavor profile, there might be a picture of a peach and a rose and a lemon. For the food pairing, you’ll see a little plate of pasta and a pig and a steak.’
We worked with the same editor again. We had the structure already so that was a blessing.
When our editor came to us and said we want to publish this book, we were so excited. But then we looked at each other and said, we don’t have a lot of time to write this book. Let’s let, how, how are we gonna do this? You know? So we divided and conquered.
If you love wine, you’re gonna love this book, whether you’re a novice or above.
My old boss used to tease me because back then I enjoyed white more than red. Why doesn’t white get the respect that red does?
You know, you’re very right. We had to fight for this book.
I’m an equal opportunity white wine and red wine drinker and rose, because there are wines for different occasions. Sometimes when you’re having a big heavy steak, you want a red wine, but a lot of times we’re trying to eat lighter, more vegetables, lighter cuisine. It’s summertime now. Lighter white wines really go with those foods.
There’s so many grapes in this book. Is there one lesser-known grape that you want the world to know about because it’s an amazing discovery?
We have a holiday coming up this weekend. By the time this is posted, it will just have passed. This coming Sunday is International Pošip Day, and Pošip is a wine from coastal Croatia. It grows in Dalmatia and on some of the islands. It’s this wonderful, delightful, fresh, crisp, citrusy white grape from Croatia that we don’t see a lot of in the US. It’s in more major urban markets. It’d really worthy of attention.
Were there any unexpected surprises as you created this book?
When we did Red Wine, we did single varieties and regional blend styles, like Rioja which can have three or four different grapes in a bottle and Bordeaux can be up to six different grapes. That actually includes sparkling wine we covered in Red wine.
We covered only nine regional blend styles and 41 single varieties in White Wine. I just did account. I believe we have 14 regional right grape styles. So things like White Bordeaux, White Rioja fall under a style that’s not necessarily one grape.
Is there a message that you haven’t been asked that you would love to share with a wine loving audience?
You can always learn something. Keep learning, keep asking questions.
Sometimes there are some really interesting questions that people come up with.
We are wine experts, we’re authors of six wine books now. We write for different publications. We’re mast head at two different magazines, so we really kind of know what we’re talking about, but we don’t know everything.
So, being able to understand that and admit that, wine is a continuous, ongoing journey and learning about wine is what makes it very exciting. So I’m really happy to have been on the journey so far and I hope have a lot more years on this journey to learn more about wines I’ve never tried.
So thank you so much for your time. Tell us where to find you, where to follow you, your social media websites.
We are on Facebook and on Instagram as World Wine Guys. We have a website, www.WorldWineGuys.com for a lot of our articles and videos we’ve done over the last 13 -14 years.
Go to www amazon.com and put in three words, white wine book, it’ll pop up.
And then as you scroll down under, ‘Usually bought together.’ It’s our white wine book and our Red Wine book.
We’re not the beginning and the end of wine knowledge. There are so many of our colleagues that we respect deeply. So there’s a lot to learn from everybody.
All I can say is that’s what we’d like for people to learn more, enjoy wine, open a bottle of wine with your family and friends and you know, we kind of drop all of our guards, we drop all of our pretenses and the world will be a lot better place.
LA Love Cocktails! Now Madre Mezcal offers a Gateway to a Better Taste
Today’s conversation is with Ryan Fleming from Madre Mezcal. The LA nightlife veteran reveals his time working behind the bar in some of Southern California’s hottest spots, as well as the inspiration that got him to travel to Mexico, discovering Mezcal. The aroma, flavors, science and food pairings for Mezcal.
Love Tequila? Discover the Gateway to better taste with Madre Mezcal’s Ryan Fleming
This conversation has been edited for length and clarity. For the full, unedited conversation, visit our YouTube Channel.
“…I’ve been a big Mezcal lover before I ever sold it…”
Joe Winger: Can you share the behind the scenes or how the brand itself was created?
Ryan Fleming: I’ve been a big Mezcal lover before I ever even sold it or made a dollar doing that. So I got to actually meet Ron Cooper, who is the legend that started the Del Maguey label back in 2011.
I got to drink rabbit Pachuca with him and all these other amazing things. The reason I bring him up is he’s a kind of one of the people that we look up to, how to sustainably bring a brand and how to create culture that crosses boundaries in a sense.
He has a beautiful book that I recommend anyone to read if you haven’t read Ron Cooper’s book.
But we share a similar story. One of our founding partners, Tony Farfalla and one of my good friends, Stefan Tony’s an artist and he was literally traveling through Oaxaca doing documentaries and embracing the art and culture. He happened to meet Jose Morales, which is the first family we ever worked with.
If you have original bottles of Madre [Mezcal] before the labels have changed, it used to say Jose’s name on the bottle.
So Tony was bringing bottles back to Brooklyn in plastic water bottles and it snowballed. His friends in Brooklyn were like, this stuff’s great. Started out in plastic water bottles in 2014. I think it was 2016 when our first glass bottles actually came by and we became like of a more legit brand and company. But it started with Tony and Stefan; and they brought on our CEO and COO, Chris and Davide.
Chris actually is one of the founding driving forces in the electronic scene in the 90s in Europe. Chris comes from a very artistic, music based background. Then he went on to work for some bigger alcohol brands in the vodka world.
Davide, who is our COO, my direct boss, who I love, is Italian and his whole family built furniture and he got his big break by importing and bringing furniture over [to the United States]. He also works with a beautiful high end apparel line.
“…everyone has a very unique artistic background, which really reflects the brand and the label…”
So everyone has a very unique artistic background, which really reflects the brand and the label. Just not wanting to make a quick buck and actually make something we can stand behind and believe in.
As the families now blossom into four, we use three: the Vasquez family, the Blas family and the Morales family are our three main producers for our red and black label, which most people are familiar with.
We just brought in Moises and he’s actually from Santa Catarina Minas. That’s a little town where all they really make is their production. It’s a town known for nothing but clay pot distillation. So if you actually use a copper pot in, in Manera and Santa Caterina Minas, you’re looked at as what are you doing? That’s not what we do here.
He’s our last and newest producer and he may be the most cowboy of them all, and he’s my favorite.
When you get to Tlaxcala, you have to walk over like a little rope bridge over like a river and stuff into the hills of Minas to see his production, and he’s got his grandfather’s old still, and he’s got his mom’s little kitchen that he wants to reopen, and it’s like a restaurant. But if you and I were to look at it, it just looks like a backyard set of tables and chairs with a cooking center.
No, this is a restaurant for the village. It’s really beautiful down in Minas. I recommend everyone, if you get a chance to go down there, it felt like the jungles in Costa Rica, cause it’s up near the hills and it’s just so green and lush up there.
“…I’ve been working in the alcohol industry for almost 15 years …”
Joe Winger:What got you down there? Was it for a vacation or for Mezcal?
Ryan Fleming:
So I’ve been working in the alcohol industry for almost 15 years and I worked for the Houston Hospitality Group for over a decade, helping run programs and menus. I worked for a couple other restaurants, but I used to work for Stillhouse Whiskey, which many people remember the terrible flavored moonshine in a gas can.
Yeah I actually sold that. I did pretty well, there was always one flavor that someone loved. I had the mint chocolate chip and I would keep it in the freezer to take care of my sweet tooth when I didn’t have ice cream. So that’s how it started.
My buddy, Stefan, who’s one of the founding partners goes, “Hey, we got this Mezcal company.” I was just basically consulting for free lunches.
One day he goes, do you want to go to Oaxaca? And I went, absolutely.
I familiar with going down to Mexico city, but I’d never been as far South as Oaxaca. So I jumped at the chance.
[Meanwhile] we all got an email from Stillhouse saying “Hey, I know things are being shaken up right now, but trust me, everything’s fine. Don’t worry about it.”
That weekend, apparently the whole team got laid off, but I didn’t get the email untll I came home Monday. They’re saying, “Ryan, are you going to be okay? Do you need help finding work?”
So I went down to Oaxaca, met the families, broke bread with Jose Morales, got to meet his mother who blessed the roast and cooked us dinner. They offered me a job.
That was started my journey about six years ago with Madre [Mezcal ]and I’ve been with him since.
Fleming motions to tattoos on his arms and hands.
Discovering Madre Mezcal
I have it tattooed on my hand right here. I have it tattooed on my palm right here. And I think I have another one on the inside of my leg too. We do tasting events and we’ll have pop up tattoo artists all the time.
Tequila vs Madre Mezcal
Joe Winger:
You mentioned the tastings and the education. Are there quick lessons that you teach the most often?
Ryan Fleming:
Basic production, culture, financial, environmental and economic sustainability.
I don’t think people understand that Oaxaca is the second poorest state in Mexico. Everyone thinks the Mezcal boom must be bringing so many jobs, but it really only affects about 20 – 40,000 people that live in Oaxaca for the production,
Mezcal is great because it does bring some financial sustainability to the families. Jose started off driving a taxi to pay his bills and now he’s making Mezcal in his family’s tradition. His whole family, his cousin, his uncles, they all make Mezcal for a living now.
There’s so much culture behind it. Even the old argument of did the Spanish bring over copper stills and that started distillation or does it go back to the Aztecs and Mayans? Because they found distillate and pottery from 3000 years ago. It’s those little nuances.
People really like to talk about the environmental, but giving back to the people down there by not just buying product, but giving them some ownership, which Madre does do, so that everyone has a little bit of skin in the game.
So I think Sustainability, whether it’s environmental, economical, cultural, and production. Those are the things I really like to talk about.
Joe Winger:What is the basic difference between mezcal and tequila? Or is it more complicated?
Ryan Fleming:
You could say production techniques, additives, mass production are probably the three biggest differences.
Tequila can only be made with one agave. It’s a blue weber. Mezcal can be made with the other 47-ish varietals, and that number is always fluctuating, based on classification and family genius.
Production is the big one. Tequila is made in massive factories and made with either chemicals or steam for the most part.
Whereas mezcal is actually made by hand, roasted in an earthen oven. The biggest thing that separates Tequila and Mezcal is the 1% additive rule.
Tequila can have up to 1% by volume additives, and they don’t have to tell you. That’s why certain large brands will say 100% Agave, but it’s full of additives, because it doesn’t take much with modern chemistry. Just a couple drops of glycerin or vanilla extract to change the flavor and hide all the nuances.
Mezcal can’t have any additives by law.
Joe Winger:Can we walk through the roles and responsibilities between the families that produce Madre Mezcal?
Ryan Fleming:
Yeah, the four families. Let’s start with Jose Morales. Him and his brother both make mezcal. Now they produce for us in the US exclusively. We encourage all of our families to continue making mezcal to trade. They use it for a local economy.
Every time I go down there, [their operation is growing]. When they started, they had three stills. Now there’s 12 up and running and they have solar power. It’s just so crazy to see how much the transformation has happened.
The original recipe, the blend of cuishe and espadine at 90 proof, that’s his family’s recipe. So we expanded that and we brought on Carlos Blas and the Vasquez family. Unfortunately, Natalio the father passed away a couple of years ago.
His daughters are now producing in the family’s tradition and we take whatever we can from them.
But what we do, that’s a little bit different is, we started out when it was just Jose, he was making the blend himself. Now we have them make the espadine and the cuishe separately.
All three families are part of the process. Sometimes we just get cuiche from Jose. Sometimes Carlos makes all the espadine, but Carlos is like a master blender.
We blend a cold style like Scotch does. Even though it’s not the most traditional way, all the distillation and process is as true as it can be.
But by blending post distillation allows us to keep consistency, which was a huge problem because every batch with your wild fermentation, your wild yeast and all these beautiful nuances, it’ll be inconsistent as you grow as a brand. It was hard for us to keep consistency.
But by blending multiple terroirs and three different families’ production, we can keep a consistent product that tastes the same as well as expanding and bringing on more families to help instead of just going to a large factory house and not making what I would call “traditional Mezcal.”
Joe Winger:So focusing on your background, you mentioned that you’ve been a bartender in the LA nightlife. Any memorable adventures or lessons you can share?
Ryan Fleming:
There are some stories I could tell that I probably don’t want to share publicly. But there are some amazing stories I can tell.
One of the oddest experiences I’ve ever had, I worked at Good Times at Davey Wayne’s, which is one of the most famous bars in the Hollywood nightlife in the past decade.
Paul McCartney showed up at our door.
But because our staff is younger and our door guys are a little bit younger, they thought it was an old weird British man that just showed up and they turned Paul McCartney away from the door.
‘Holy crap, is that Paul McCartney’?
He was like, do you know who I am? The guys [were like] ”We don’t care.” Like straight up, blowing Paul McCartney off. One of our managers came out and was like, ‘Holy crap, is that Paul McCartney’? And they’re like, wait, the guy from the Beatles?!
My manager ran out, “Please come back,” and Paul had a great time at the bar. We got him a special little area to sit down. It was a packed Saturday. It’s not a nightclub where we have gated off [areas]. Even if you reserve a table, people are inches away from you where you’re sitting at your table.
Justin Bieber showed up one time and everyone went nuts. He comes in, walks around, does a loop, comes out and goes, “I thought this was a hip hop club.” and just left.
It was a 1970s themed bar and we played nothing but 70s music.
The dichotomy between the two different generations and to see them all melt into one location was one of the coolest things about working at that bar.
Joe Winger:It’s so crowded because it’s so popular. The Houston Brothers always do such a good job.
Ryan Fleming:
Yeah. The cocktails are still really good too. For as much volume as we used to do there, the biggest thing is how can I make a really beautiful cocktail that’s still cost effective and doesn’t take 12 steps. We got really good at batching stuff and figuring out how to infuse things. Luckily our back of house was just the most amazing. Mariano is the best barback I’ve ever had in my whole life. He’s still there.
He is just a workhorse that got all the infusions. He would cook, he would infuse all of our products and he was just great. Even if we just did a jalapeno infusion on our tequila, if it got too spicy, he could break down the ratio and water it down with more products so that we could keep the spice level approachable.
Joe Winger:
What is the secret to high quantity yet high value cocktails?
Ryan Fleming:
Batching is definitely the way to do it. Any of your alcohols that are shelf stable, you want to put all of those in the proper ratios in a bottle.
Instead of grabbing a modifier and your base spirit and another modifier, you’re grabbing one bottle with a special tape at the bottom, so you know which cocktail it goes to and then all your fresh stuff.
You can’t batch the fresh stuff. It has to be separated because you put citrus in something and it goes bad in three days. Now the whole batch is bad. So keeping your fresh stuff separated.
Joe Winger: Back to Madre Mezcal. Obviously the bottles themselves are where all the power is. So let’s talk about labels and taste profiles.
Ryan Fleming:
People love our labels. Our branding is top notch. It’s one of the first compliments we always get. “Oh my God, I love your branding.”
Madre Mezcal Artesanal
Looked at Oaxacan culture and some other like medieval culture and combined the art from the two.
As far as the red label it’s the woman on the bull. It’s a really beautiful message of Mother Earth coming down and starting to share humanity and move across the world to plants and spread love. That’s why she’s on the bull. It’s the combination of animal, Mother Earth, and humans.
Madre Mezcal Espandin
The black label is a beautiful logo of a woman on the ground. She’s planting and spreading the seed of life that gives us agave and flowers and fruit and vegetables and everything else.
Madre Mezcal Ancestral
The ancestral is this beautiful clay bottle with old clay vessels from Greece that carried wine with the fluid coming out and it’s supposed to celebrate the ancestral way of making mezcal and clay pots and clay distillation.
I always love telling the story of people who say mezcal is not supposed to be aged, which is a true-ish statement in my opinion. But back in the day, everything got transferred in barrels. So Mezcal would accidentally get aged in barrels because it would travel from town to town on horseback after the product was made.
So the idea that Mezcal was never aged is it wasn’t aged on purpose.
Mezcal was accidentally aged in wood. The traditional way that people would age Mezcal is in glass and they would hide it underground.
I always tell people, if you have a beautiful bottle of Mezcal, you should open it and take it out and put a wine cork in it, or at least crack the bottle and get some air because it really lets alcohol open up and aerate.
Mezcal benefits from a resting period. Pouring it in a nice open glass, like a snifter or a wine glass, letting it sit for about 5-10 minutes will really open it up.
Madre Mezcal tasting notes
Madre is designed to be less smoky. I really hate the term smoky. I like the word roasted because what you’re tasting is like barbeque.
You’re tasting the roasting of the agave and the charcoaling and the burning of the outside agave which will affect the sugars, the caramelization.
Madre really was designed to be a more approachable mezcal. We call ourselves ”The gateway to the category.”
We want to bring people from tequila over to Mezcal so you can explore what agave spirits also have to offer.
It’s bright, clean, and smooth. I always compare it to a really nice, made tequila.
Our Espadine is actually a close cousin of [tequila’s] Blue Weber. It tastes really bright, clean and smooth. But you’re going to get some of that minerality and smoke in the end.
Like easy drinking with some earthy aromas.
Joe Winger:That night when I met you, what you handed me was my first taste of the night. I love that it was so pure and smooth. It didn’t clog up my mouth for the rest of the night.
Ryan Fleming:
I’m like you. I want to have 2-3 cocktails a night. Not just one and my palette’s done.
Our Espadine to me is a 2-3 second palette. It clears up and you get like a breath and it’s fading. Our Ensemble goes on for 10- 12 seconds. From sweet vanilla to chocolate to mineral and then to smoke. Then the smoke fades and you get just a really beautiful, crisp. It’s viscous. You can feel the oil in your mouth when you swirl it around and it makes the best Negroni.
Joe Winger:Let’s talk about food pairings.
Ryan Fleming:
I want to know if this caught you off guard, but it’s Italian food.
Very rich foods. These beautiful Mezcals are light and almost floral and fragrant, It cuts through the richness and creaminess of food.
That’s why mezcal and chocolate are consistently paired together, but that was just way too easy. There’s always mezcal chocolate pairings, but like a really nice Italian dish, something creamy and rich, like an Alfredo or a really well done piece of pizza, like a margarita or a white sauce pizza.
“…I want to know if this caught you off guard, but…”
We are working on doing some [pizza] pairings with some places in LA. Do a different slice of pizza with three different cocktails of Madre and then have a tasting at the end.
Chocolate has a big part of Oaxaca too. You can’t not have some chocolate and mezcal at the end of the night.
Espresso martinis are so hot again right now. Try making one with mezcal instead of vodka and just [see] how coffee helps open up the agave and the notes, and you’re going to get so much more going on in your cocktail.
If you pair a nice espresso martini with beautiful, dark chocolate from Oaxaca. That is your final cocktail at the end of the night, it won’t let you down.
Joe Winger:You mentioned replacing Mezcal with vodka in a martini, are there any traditional or more common cocktails we should also try replacing Mezcal in?
Ryan Fleming:
When I tell you this, it may blow your mind. Most gin cocktails are a little bit better with Mezcal.
There are certain times you need botanicals, but a lot of really good classic gin cocktails, if you sub them for Mezcal, are absolutely fantastic.
Joe Winger:I’m shocked because most gins have such unique aromatics.
Ryan Fleming:
Which Mezcal has so many of those same unique terpenes going on that it changes the cocktail, but it works.
So instead of having botanicals, you have all these beautiful vegetal and mineral notes that just come from agaves.
Joe Winger:What are the biggest misconceptions in the world of Mezcal?
Ryan Fleming:
A lot of people have a misconception, especially on the trade side, that we have grown exponentially. It’s been a lot of hard work. People think we have this massive team behind us. There’s less than 20 of us on the whole team. That includes our team down in Oaxaca, who watches over manufacturing and production for us down there.
We don’t have an office. We have a little tiny apartment in Venice for meetings.
A lot of people don’t understand the hard work that goes into creating a small brand. It’s just a lot of people working hard to create beautiful Mezcal, especially the families.
People [unfairly comparing it to] tequila. What do you mean, we can’t get more? Why is it so expensive? We have people going out hand collecting wild agaves and harvesting espadine. All of that is hand cut, hand chopped. I’ve hand cut agaves with the families.
None of this is industrialized or mechanized like tequila.
Appreciate every drop of mezcal you have, because someone put a lot of love and labor into it.
Joe Winger:Ryan, as we wrap up, let’s talk about where can learn more about Madre Mezcal?
Ryan Fleming:
We have a beautiful Instagram. Madremezcal.com is our website.
We also have this Instagram called mezcal. Learning and it’s a little short videos and little blurbs to talk about production, families, history, and culture. It is focused on Madre, but it’s not just Madre, it’s Mezcal as a whole.
If you want to know more about our families who produce, where it’s made, you can find all that information on madremezgal. com.
Our bottles are in most of your nicer bottle shops, liquor stores. In California, we’re lucky enough to be in Trader Joe’s for the Espadine and Whole Foods has our Ensemble.
If you can’t find it, go to madremezcal.com and we ship bottles to almost every state in the U S.
We’re in nine countries, too. Australia. All over Europe, Costa Rica. We’re working on Japan and South Korea as well. So I’m just excited to see the culture of mezcal just expand beyond just America and see how excited because I, when I talk to people that are in London or, people in Australia, and they’re so excited about the idea of being able to get mezcal.
Joe Winger: What is the future for Madre?
Ryan Fleming:I can’t tell you about the big one.
But, [exciting things for] our Ancestral, which is pretty new and every batch of that’s going to be hand numbered and labeled.
We’re going to start doing small batch productions that will be very limited. Then the desert waters, which we have ready for summer.
